Travel Diary - Vizag

THE PLAN

It had been 3 months to our Pelling Trip. Roy, Prashant and I were sitting in the open-air amphitheatre in our enclave, and discussing where our next trip should be. Since Prashant is from Bhagalpur, I was trying to persuade him to Puri,just because it's nearby,but Roy, the eternal persuader, convinced us to do a Vizag.

Reason – It has beautiful beaches, a hill-station and a 150 million year old, 800 metre below sea level, underground cave. The atypical combination of a beach and a hill – station thrilled us. Though we weren’t very sure of the latter, we decided to hit it off.

Thus, Vizag trip was born.

Prashant’s roommates – Vikram and Amit readily agreed to join us on the weekend escapade.

We boarded the Yashwantpur Express on Friday, the 20^th Aug, 8:30 PM from Howrah. It was a 14 hour overnight journey, from Bengal to Andhra over Orissa. How the pantry food changed from Aloo Chops and Samosas to Idlis and Upma was only a matter of closing your eyes and opening them again. After a lot of chit-chatting, leg-pulling , and funde’s we reached Vizag station at 10:30 AM sharp. We were happy and surprised that the train was just in time. For a moment, it seemed to us, even the universe wanted us to be in this trip.

DAY 1 : Saturday,21st August,2010

From Vizag station we took an auto to Beach Road which was a 20 minute ride. All of us were amazed to see how clean and maintained the city was. Roads with Ups and Downs, twists and turns, but everything was so well planned.

We checked – in Hotel – Nirala Saikat , straightened our weary backbones a bit and then ran towards the beach. One good thing about a beach is that, no matter tired you are, it always draws you. We were dying to hit the waters while on the train, and now that moment had come.

POINT 1 : RK BEACH

Ramakrishna Beach, popularly known as RK beach, is the closest beach park you can reach from the heart of the city. Of course, the beach is one of the best tourist spots in Vizag.

Spreading through the edge of the sea, the R.K.Beach is a great spot to spend time with your loved ones. Singles of course always get mesmerized in their dreams sitting at the beach shores. People from around the world come here to enjoy the cool breeze. Young Children spend their Sunday and Holiday evenings here playing with sand.

A visit to the beach will surely free your mind of tensions and bring in new energy. Sipping a soft drink or biting corn, you can walk on the beach sands or just lie down and de-stress your mind experiencing the cool breeze, looking at the waves and the ships that appear to be moving as slow as a snail.

My Suggestion – Don’t take a dip here,the water is really contaminated with Puja left – overs. Take a long stroll with your loved ones away from the beach crowd, find a cleaner spot and enjoy your dip there.Get your cabs arranged from the hotel itself, it would cost you less.

Travel Meter – 7/10

We returned to our Hotel, took a quick shower, loaded our cameras and booked an cab for the nearby sightseeing. 5 people, 1000 bucks, 3 sights seemed OK to us and we met our driver cum guide, Mr. Ramana.

POINT 2 : FISHING DOCKS

So our first point was the worst spot any tourist guide can take you to – A fishing dock.

Kilometer long roads, draped with smelly fish (shutki) drying in the sun,literally choked us to hurl abuses and violent expletives. Me and Roy being true bongs, explained the rest that this kinda stuff is not associated with us.

Ramana told us that every day since 4:00 AM in the morning, lakhs worth of fish trading was done there, at the docks.Various types of fish are exported to everywhere in India and abroad. There was also, a boat ride there for tourists, which would give a ride to 20 people at a time. We were just five.

Trust me, people who trade there have been fitted with custom made nostrils by God himself.

Just one word – Unbearable.

My suggestion – NEVER NEVER NEVER go there.

Travel Metre – (minus)10/10

Our lungs soon thanked us when we proceeded further on. It was 2:30 PM and we were damn hungry. Ramana took us to a restaurant named ‘Bombay Lunch’ which was good. Soon after lunch we loaded the ambassador with chilled beer and headed towards the lighthouse.The city was just like any other busy city. Usual hustle and bustle in the markets and roads. The road from Vizag City to the lighthouse is the same as the road to Darjeeling. The only difference here is you get the view of the sea. As you gain altitude, the houses become smaller, and your eyes go wider. Beautiful view from the top!

Ramana told us that these areas are strictly for the Naval Officers. Small but beautiful little enclaves, along with grocery stores, party clubs and hang out areas. Finally, we reached the place, known as the lighthouse.

POINT 3 : THE LIGHTHOUSE

The lighthouse belongs to the Indian Navy and it is a beacon of hope for over 35 kms far and wide into the Bay of Bengal. The view from the lighthouse balcony is simply breathtaking. You can see the Vizag city kissing the sea at three famous beaches – RK, Rishikonda and Yerada.

Standing on top of the lighthouse, looking into the vast mighty ocean, you fail to realize where it merges with the blue sky.

We clicked snaps with all sorts of funny poses, sexy poses and uber cool poses. Leaving the lighthouse we felt what if we could have a home here, waking up in the morning ,sitting in the balcony, sipping in hot coffee; Our eyes would never get bored.

My suggestion – MUST GO.Entry Fee is 10 bucks and camera’s 30 bucks,so carry just one camera.

Travel Meter – 9/10

POINT 5 : YARADA BEACH

Next on our list was the Yarada Beach. Just 2 kms away from the lighthouse, Yarada beach is one of the top 10 beaches in Asia. Beautiful and well maintained by the locals, it truly will take your heart away. A beautiful garden surrounded by Cashew trees, breakout areas, small playgrounds for children and restaurants.

Heading towards the beach we felt like clicking a few pics and so we began jumping,making faces and stuffs like this. We all ran into the water like they do in the movies…couldn't capture that

Roy, getting the escape velocity

A perfect beach to have a holiday out, Yarada beach, offers wonderful scenery with the magnificent greenery around and soft golden sands. The beach is surrounded by picturesque hills on three sides with Bay of Bengal provides the exotic waves from the fourth side. The beach offers a calm and secluded atmosphere to those looking for solitude and mental peace. The beach maintains its cleanliness and majesty, attracting lots of tourists.The water is clear blue, clean, carrying pretty distinct sand particles,that would probably go away after a wash.

People along with their families had come for a picnic. You would see lovers, holding hands and bearing the water a testimony to their love. The tip of the island known as Dolphins nose(Got its name from the shape it resembles, that of a dolphins nose) has huge rocks opening out to the sea.

It’s a macabre of liquid state hitting and smashing the solid state, beating it slowly, nailing it bit by bit. All of us bathed and had a great time at Yarada Beach. Lots of pics, poses, fun, mockery happened there. Most of them cannot be mentioned here.

My suggestion – Be careful of the water as the current is very strong. Also, if you don’t know to swim, do not go deep into the water as there are no life guards. You will miss water sports here. AP govt must do something to make this beach more popular.

Beach closes at 5:00 PM sharp, hurry up with your pics and fun.

Travel Meter – 8/10

It was almost 5, when we decided to return as the beach closes at 5:00 PM sharp. Missed the sunset though as it was on the other side. Drenched, head full of sand particles, drinking chilled beer, we returned to our hotel after a 2 hour ride. We were really tired and dirty, so really needed some time to freshen up. That evening all of us spent at the RK beach, just outside our hotel.

Strolling lazily along the beach pavement, we saw many hawkers selling ‘bhutta’, ’jhaal muri’, ’pakoras’, but we just kept walking along the pavement. You will see people of all ages there at the beachside. College lovers counting stars, Senior citizens talking about their youth, Children playing around making sand castles and tourists like us, squatted lazily, watching the inexorable waves beat the shore, and cherishing the timeless moment. As we walked further on, we came across a beachside stall named ‘Sukh Sagar’. It looked like a fruit shop, selling fruit juices. As we were thirsty, we decided to have some juice. Later, we learnt that the shop specializes in various types of fruit milk shakes – apple, pineapple, grape, guava etc. All of us ordered a different fruit milk shake, so that we could try them all. Sukh Sagar has its own unique way of making milk shakes. The milk is stored in small packets and frozen in a chiller. That milk is then blended with fresh fruits in a mixer and served semi - frozen with a straw. Slowly the frozen shake melts and all you drink is bliss. If you are with a group of friends, sitting on the beach, watching the beautiful waves, as the moon bathes you in its celestial light, and your sipping in Sukh Sagar’s milkshake, you will feel you are in paradise. No alcohol can match that intoxication.

What an end to a beautiful day!

DAY 2: Sunday,22nd August,2010

The next day was a big one for us, as we had to visit Araku and Borra Caves. It was a journey that was to start off as early as 5 AM in the morning. Now let me tell you about the planning. You can either go to Araku via train which leaves from Vizag station at 6:30 AM and takes you to Araku by 11:30 AM or you could use a detour and take a Sumo to Araku, which will obviously take lesser time. Returning options are the same. Since we had to enjoy the scenic beauty through 43 tunnels and the surrounding valleys, we decided to go by train and return by Sumo. The journey was painfully long and boring. There was nothing exciting about it. The scenic beauty won’t impress you especially if you are returning fresh after a Sikkim trip. The occasional screams you hear from fellow passengers as you cross the tunnel will not amuse you to the least.

We finally reached Araku station at 11:00 AM and without much ado, took a Sumo to visit Araku Valley.

POINT # INSIGNIFICANT

1)Botanical Park – Huge park, but nothing exciting if you are single or with friends. A paradise for couples, with plenty of places where you can get lost and stay there for months, make kids and come out.(not that I saw anyone making babies….just assuming)

2)Museum – The museum will always be closed. Inside the premises you will see a man with bow and arrows, charging Rs 5.00 for 5 shots at the target.

3) And that is all that there is to F’Araku.

My suggestions

- Do not opt for the train journey and even if you do, get down at Borra Station at 10:00 AM sharp.

- There is nothing to see at Araku, but people still go there, return and spend time at the Borra Caves. The Sumo wallahs will explain you that this is off season otherwise you would see flowers in the valleys. All bullshit !!!

- I'll kill you if you go there, even after reading this.

Travel Meter – 1/10

POINT 7 : U POINT

We were really disappointed with whoever suggested Araku to us, and got back to our Sumo, swearing and cursing that very person. Sad and dejected, we headed towards Borra Caves. It takes about two hours from Araku to Borra Caves. On the way, nearing Borra, will come a beautiful spot named U spot. Wonder where that name came from ? It’s a beautiful spot guarded by steel railings, from where you can see the entire valley below. The view is breathtaking and awesome for some photography.

From left ( Vikram, Me , Amit, Prashant and Roy )

POINT 8 : COFFEE PLANTATION

Just 15 mins from the U point, is a beautiful Coffee plantation. It’s an amazing uphill walk across the coffee plants, meticulously planted in neat rows. It was great to see where our everyday Nescafe and Bru came from.

You can see the green berries hanging in the tufts.

My Suggestion - Just one word of caution, don’t forget your way up, or you will surely lose your way down. And also, be careful, while you come down, you wouldn’t want a broken leg before Borra.

Outside the coffee plantation, you will see small coffee stalls set up, so don’t miss that. Each one of us tasted 3 different kinds of coffee, and it felt yummy. The coffee plantation is juxtaposed by a similar black pepper trees on the opposite side. Well, don’t try tasting that.

Travel Meter – 6/10

POINT 9 : BORRA CAVES

It was just 10mins from there, we reached the famous and ancient Borra Caves.

Borra(hole in Oriya) Caves are naturally formed and believed to be 150 million years old..The humic acid in the water reacts with Calcium bi Carbonate in limestones, and dissolves the minerals, breaking the rock gradually. The perennial water flow over a period of time resulted in the formation of the caves.

The water percolating on the roofs containing calcium bicarbonate and other minerals form mounds on the ground called “Stalagmites” and spear like hanging structures from the roof called “Stalactites”.

The stalactites and stalagmites acquire different shapes and forms inspiring the imagination of the tourists and locals and earing and eresting names and characters like Shiv Parvati, Mother n Child, Human Brain, Crocodile etc.The formation of brainshaped stalagmite at the central part of the caves can be said to be a gift of nature.

It was absolutely an amazing experience inside the caves. Complete darkness, voices echoing, Prashant and Roy sometimes imitated a dog, a cow, a goat and god knows what, made the experience so funny and creepy at the same time. You just keep descending deeper and deeper into the caves through a fleet of steps.

My Suggestion - Tourists guides are available, but they aren’t of any use. Try to follow a group that has availed a guide and keep your ears open, that’s all. Some portions of the cave have really dangerous terrain and trespassing is strictly prohibited, so don’t act smart there, it may cost you your sweet life. Also, water constantly keeps dripping from above, which makes the steps real slippery, watch each step you take and always be in a group. Lastly, do not disturb the bats, or your trip will be a nightmare.

My rating – 10/10 – You can’t miss this.

A long a tiring day had come to an end, and what a way it ended. As we headed back to our hotel, we kept thinking of the Borra Caves, and the ubiquitous God who created such a marvel. We wished AP government could do something to promote Vizag and Borra Caves.

That night we spent drinking and chatting in our rooms as loud music of a telegu pepe number “Shiv Shambhu” played in the background. It was our last night at Vizag, and we wanted to see its soul.

DAY 3 : Monday,23rd August,2010

The next morning we had just one place planned for our visit and that was Kailashgiri, so we quickly checked out by 9:00 and headed towards Kailashgiri which was about 15 mins from our hotel. On reaching Kailashgiri, we learnt that

- The Gates open at 10:30 AM

- You could either take a ropeway to the top which will cost you Rs 60 per head

- Or you could walk up a fleet of 3000 steps

Since we still had time, we decided to stroll by the RK beach and get a few snaps. There was absolutely no one in the beach that time. So we did all kinds of poses, danced around like jokers, made funny faces and did Baywatch style running. The fun we had for those 45 mins, makes this trip unforgettable.

POINT 10 : KAILASHGIRI

At 10:30 we winded up with the beach madness and headed towards Kailashgiri. There’s a problem if you are travelling with a health freak. No matter how much you want to get away from all the climbing and walking, he will convince you to it. Mr. Prashant , our freako here, made us walk up 3000 steps, when we could have taken the ropeway. Finally after 30 mins of agonizing walk, we reached the gates of Kailashgiri and I could literally see butterflies dancing in front of my eyes.

Kailashgiri is a small little Park cum Temple cum Meteorological cum hangout area. Confused? Let me explain bit by bit.

Anyone who enters the gates of Kailashgiri, goes to a Cold Drink Stall, set up by a very smart businessman, strategically in the best place. Everyone who take the steps, has to go there to buy water and cold drinks. After drinking two bottles of chilled water and 8 Nimbooz, we found an amazing spot for photography. It’s a point from where you can see the entire Vizag City and the deep blue sea, and the clouds in the sky, juxtaposed beautifully, creating a breathtaking panorama. Here are some of the pics we got from there.

After that, we fooled around a bit in the park.

And then we saw something. Two apocalyptic statues of Lord Shiva and Parvati, made of pure white stone and carved to perfection. It was to be seen to be believed. The surrounding trees, the clear blue sky, the God sitting with his Goddess, watching over us, It felt like we were in heaven.

Here are a few pics I got there…

See the jet plane , timed to perfection.

Nearby, there is a small children’s park where kids were playing cricket. Everyone was dressed in school uniforms, which gave us the impression that they had come for an excursion.

Strolling around, we saw a Solar Energy Park and a huge Meteorological Centre (entry denied). We had our lunch there at the cafetria, and headed for the station at 12:00

While returning, I personally thanked Prashant for making us do the steps, cause it really was very dramatic as we found God after a lot of toiling. Trust me, you won’t like Kailashgiri if you go up by the ropeway. If you really want to see God, follow his steps.

My Suggestion – If you are staying around RK beach, take an auto to Kailashgiri, its nearby. We booked a Sumo and paid for a 15 min ride.

Travel Meter – 10/10

Here we are at the Vizag Station bidding a warm Goodbye to the people of Vizag, taking back some beautiful memories with us.

Been there...done that.